India: Udaipur – The City of Dreams, Lakes and Legends

If there’s one place in India that feels like it drifted out of a dream, it’s Udaipur.Tucked into the southern part of Rajasthan in western India, Udaipur is a city of calm lakes, green islands, and sunsets that feel unreal, hand painted. It’s about 394 kilometres from Jaipur—a 6 to 7-hour drive—but feels like an entirely different world the moment you arrive.The first time I came here, I was fortunate enough to be part of a Bushtracks Private Jet VIP journey. We landed in style and were ferried across the mirror-still waters of Lake Pichola to the iconic Lake Palace Hotel— floating like a marble dream in the centre of the lake. We spent two unforgettable nights. Waking up there, with silence all around and history humming under your feet, I felt like being dropped into a fairytale. Since then, I’ve returned again and again—because Udaipur doesn’t let go easily.

Now, about those lakes. Udaipur isn’t just a city with a lake—it’s a city built around several lakes — seven major ones. That’s right: Lake Pichola, Fateh Sagar, Swaroop Sagar, Doodh Talai, Udai Sagar, Goverdhan Sagar, and Badi Lake. Most of them are man-made, created over centuries to catch the monsoon rains, support the city, and in the process, created an unparalleled beauty.

And here’s the cool part—these lakes mostly fill up with rainwater and runoff from the Aravalli Hills. They’re part of a clever old catchment system that still works beautifully today. Some of the lakes are even linked, so when one overflows, it feeds into the next. It’s that simple and smart. That’s why the lakes stay fresh and full almost all year round—a mix of nature and age-old engineering doing their thing in harmony.

Lake Pichola is the star of the show. And rising from its heart is the elegant white-marble wonder once known as Jag Niwas, now famously the Lake Palace Hotel. A lot of people love to tell the tale that it was built to hide a party-loving prince from public view—a romantic idea, but not quite accurate.

In truth, Maharana Jagat Singh II commissioned the palace in the 1740s, during his reign—not as exile or punishment, but as a summer retreat fit for royalty. He was known for his love of luxury—lavish gatherings, music, dance, and charming company—but the Lake Palace wasn’t built to hide anything. It was built because he could.

Perched on a natural rocky island, the palace took around three years to complete and was well ahead of its time—self-sustaining, with cooling courtyards, water storage, and private access by boat. It wasn’t just beautiful—it was functional, too. A private paradise for moonlit dinners and warm summer nights, surrounded by still waters and starlight.

Then there’s Fateh Sagar Lake, perfect for an evening walk or boat ride. Swaroop Sagar, small but vital. Doodh Talai, with its sweet little garden and big city views. Udai Sagar, Badi, and Goverdhan Sagar—each with its own rhythm and charm. Together, they form a glistening network that has quietly sustained this city for generations.

But if you want to really feel Udaipur, head into the Old City. It’s a busy maze of tiny streets, colourful walls, hand-painted signs, and constant surprises. You’ll stumble upon miniature artists painting with brushes made from squirrel hair—some creating mythological scenes, others working on shockingly realistic portraits that seem to breathe. Around the next corner, you might find a family running a cooking class, or a tailor crouched at a vintage sewing machine, making something custom just for you.

And the silver shops! Drawer after drawer of rings, bangles, toe rings, and trinkets, watched over by someone sipping chai like nothing ever needs to be rushed. Udaipur is a full-blown Indian kaleidoscope—where every street corner gives you something new to see, smell, taste, or smile about.

What I love most? This is a city where backpackers and high-end travellers blend effortlessly. It doesn’t matter whether you arrived by tuk-tuk or chartered jet—you’ll still end up on a rooftop at sunset, sipping a 650ml Kingfisher, soaking in the light, letting your senses settle after a day of colour, texture, music, and motion.

And if you're leaving the city the next day (and believe me, you won’t want to), remember: Udaipur is well connected by trains, buses, and flights, but the Old City is slow to let go. Give yourself 30 to 60 minutes to weave out through narrow lanes, sleepy cows, and possibly a few meandering tourists who stopped to take just one more photo.

And even here—under all the marble and mirrors—not everything is perfectly polished. There’s an ongoing and very recent royal family dispute playing out behind the palace walls. In late 2024, Vishvaraj Singh, the young heir and descendant of Maharana Pratap, was ceremonially anointed as the 77th custodian of the House of Mewar. By tradition, he should now reside in the City Palace. But his uncle, Arvind Singh, who currently controls the palace and the family trust, has not stepped aside.

In fact, during a ritual visit following his coronation, Vishvaraj was reportedly denied entry into the palace—a moment that caused quite a stir, both locally and in the press. The streets buzzed with whispers, and supporters from both sides have been vocal. It’s not some long-forgotten feud—it’s happening now, in real time. And it adds a layer of complexity to Udaipur’s fairytale image, reminding us that in this city, history isn’t sealed in glass cases—it’s still unfolding, raw and personal.

As the stars appear and the lake turns to silver, Udaipur wraps you in something warm and timeless. It’s not just a place you go—it’s a place you feel. A story you step into. And one that stays with you, long after you’ve left.

P.S. While you're here, I’d love for you to take a look at the 10 black and white portraits I recently submitted to the LensCulture Portrait Awards. Each face tells its own quiet story—kind of like Udaipur.
View My LensCulture Submission: https://www.lensculture.com/users/vivienne-gunning